MOCKING BIRD OF SHIMLA

 

THE MOCKING BIRD OF SHIMLA

Guru ke pan, labo ki shan – announced the billboard on the shop at the nerve centre of Shimla – “Scandal Point” on the Mall. Red spit marks around the dustbin confirmed that people had believed it. In a country where top movie actors endorsed tobacco eating surreptitiously and shamelessly, Guru definitely has a great future.

A guy was taking a stroll with his Siberian husky on leash in the crowded place teeming with tourists and locals addicted to their evening chakkar on the mall. The husky looked like looking for a convenient post to relieve himself on this once upon a time exclusive venue that was banned for his ancestor as well as his master’s forefathers. My thoughts went to the Indian who was comfortably ensconced in 10 Downing Street along with his own dog. The things had come full circle for the British. And Indians.

Shimla, Simla then was exclusive preserve of the British, who were the masters of the subcontinent and much of the world. They had converted the seven hills of Simla into a microcosm of England with English named bungalows, roads, churches, theatre, office buildings, a Scottish castle for the viceroy. Whole government crawled up the hills unbelievably all the way from Calcutta! Till the time Kalka - Simla  Railway – that marvel with unprecedented gradient and a whopping 103 tunnels was made with help of Baba Bhalku, the entire paraphernalia of the Raj reached the precincts of Syamala Mata on mule and coolie! Unbelievable!

Along with the government large number of British women reached Simla to escape the sweltering heat, leaving their men in the plains. It was the only place in India with more white women than men. Days were for picnics in the dales whereas nights were occupied for dance and party. All including viceroy threw grand parties and the romantic airs and convenient garden foliage  led to innumerable love affairs. The society turned a blind eye to casual dalliances. It was a truly fun place. Favourite hunting ground for young subalterns favored by the ladies. Native princes too tried their luck with their enormous wealth and English education and upbringing helping them in creating few memorable scandals (One of those immortalised by the most famous spot of Shimla - Scandal Point).  

Hardly any Indian was allowed on the Mall then. Unless he was a beast of burden - coolie or a rickshaw puller or - paradoxically a prince.  These were poor peasants from Sirmaur and Bilaspur who supplemented their meagre earnings during the season. Their subsistence farming wasn’t sufficient to sustain the family thoughout the year. These bare feet poor things pulled rickshaws lent by chaudharies and ferried the sahibs and memsahibs to their picnics, dramas and parties. Often they awaited for their charge to emerge dead drunk in wee hours of the morning to deposit them back to their dwelling.

Simla was racist. There were no rights or dignity for poor Indians. Crimes against these people by the British were never reported, punishment was unthinkable. One brave Indian changed it. Lala Mohan Lal was his name and he was a prominent businessman and local politician. 

Harry Mansel Playdell, a British officer emerging out of party in his bungalow found the rickshaw puller asleep on his porch. The power drunk whiteman kicked the sleeping guy in his belly violently and repeatedly. The assault probably ruptured the spleen and the man died there and then. Good riddance thought Harry. Death of the poorest was not a big deal. However Harry got shock of his life when awakened by the brutality, the rickshaw pullers and chaudharies got together and hauled him to the court. British court it was and though heavily in favour of the whites, being British always went through the semblance of just proceedings. 

Over the months as the case proceeded, the town was astonished by the perseverance of witnesses supported by Lala Mohan Lal against all coercion and threats. His steadfastness, ability to pull strings and courage tilted the balance gradually against Harry ultimately leading to rare conviction and jailing of an Englishman for Killing a Mocking Bird in India. Out of shame, Harry committed suicide.

During the course of legal proceedings, the lawyer of accused once told the judge – “My lord, Lala Mohan Lal is not an independent witness. He’s actually compromised. He’s one of them. I have seen him being salaamed by rickshawpullers before the case”!

As they say nowadays, Lala showed the British – Who was the BOSS when he replied – “Half of Simla salaams Lala”!

Lala remains one of the tallest heroes of Simla although mostly unsung and forgotten.