Ayo Gurkhali

 

AYO GURKHALI

 

“Jagadish SJBR”, announced the carved iron alphabets welded artistically on the huge wrought iron gate of the most exclusive house on a picturesque hillock in - Mashobra , the “Queen of Shimla”. “ The Peak” as the bungalow that commanded a 360 degree view of Himalaya was christened by the original British owner, who had got the estate on perpetual lease from the “Rana of Koti” was my destination and I had an appointment with “ Jagdish Shamsher Jung Bahadur Rana” of Nepal. I had fallen in love with Mashobra when in my childhood father took me to that beautiful village in midst of the best Deodar forests interspersed with quaint little British era bungalows owned by the Maharajas and ultra rich of India. “The Peak” was itself surrounded by a 500 Bigha estate of Maharaja of Faridkot having beautiful bungalows with British names like – “Kenilworth”, “Sherwood” and “Cosynook”. Father after graduating from Punjab Agricultural University had spent a year in Mashobra working on government Horticulture Farm and nurtured beautiful memories of the place. It was a fairyland. The other day, on my wanderings in the beautiful hills on my Annual Leave I had heard that the Rana was selling some residential plots in the periphery of the property. The plot was costing in 8 figures and I didn’t have in my bank account even 6 figure amount but somehow I felt that I was meant to make my house there.

I found the Great man in the beautiful verandah adorned with hundreds of pots of spectacular cactuses, the like of which I had never seen. It was a beautiful old two storied wood and stone bungalow which I later came to know was occupied by Lord Litton during his viceregality (Viceregal lodge was not built then). I felt overawed by the Royal presence. However, Rana sahib seemed to be fond of Army Officers (As are most of the people) and soon we were having an amiable discussion over tea and biscuits offered by a most gracious Mrs Rana. The premium property deserved the price being asked and I correctly guessed that the Rana was not someone with whom you haggle on minor issues like costs. He knew I liked the plot and told me that he liked me and wanted me to make my home close to him and his children. I gave him the advance amount and went to Hisar, my place of posting. Over next few months, as the date of purchase approached, I realised that I won’t be able to pay him the promised amount in agreed time. So in our next meeting in Peak, again on my leave, after chatting over myriad topics under the sun (Rana was a true philosopher ) confessed to him. “Do you want the property? He asked me looking into my eyes. “Yes sir” I said. “Then don’t worry. You are like a son. You pay me when ever you have surplus savings from your salary. There is no time limit” I was astonished at his magnanimity and trust! And so it was that I finally made full payment some 5 years after this talk and became proud owner of a small chunk of a truly princely real estate where I dream of setlling down one day growing tulips and pansies in the lawn of my own “Sans Souci” overlooking the distant verdant hills.

                                                    Jung Bahadur

Rana sahib ( Jagadish Shamsher Jung Bahadur Rana) was a direct descendent of Shamsher Jung Bahadur , the fierce and diplomatic Gurkha General who laid the dynasty of the hereditary Prime Ministers of Nepal. Ranas were de – facto rulers of Nepal, with the Shah dynasty reduced to titular head till the time when in 1960s the then king, with the help of India turned the tables leading to exile of the Ranas who spread out in North India. Jagdish Rana reached Shimla and being of an academic bent, liked “The Peak” very much for his studies and contemplation. In this haven, away from court intrigues he read and wrote, he also travelled the world. He was over the years recognised by the Nepal government for his contribution to culture and literature. He also served as a parliamentarian twice in Nepal. Rana was thickly involved in reconstruction of heritage Kathmandu post earthquake havoc of 2015. He had personally adopted a remote village and rehabilitated the poor inhabitants with own resources. He told me how he studied Sanskrit under a learned tutor for 3 years so he could read the original ved and upnishads!

Unfortunately, age was catching up with him and at 88, he suffered a heart attack after which he had to leave Shimla and move to Chandigarh for therapy. Last I met him in Chandigarh, first thing he did was handing me a 4 page pamphlet. Before I could ask him anything he told me to read the pamphlet. It was titled “Why Jagdish Rana in his advanced age is putting up in Chandigarh”. It gave update on his health too. He had typed the document for information of visitors!  Like always, I had an illuminating talk with him. Although he had lost considerable weight and vigour he was in good spirits, well looked after by his family. That was the last I saw of my most interesting friend who passed away shortly afterwards. A print of personal diary of his father Major General Mrigendra Shamsher that the Rana gifted me , is a valued literary treasure with me that gives firsthand account of life of Ranas in early 20^th century Nepal when they held all the power.

 

Another great Gurkha who comes to mind is “Bade Kazi” Amar Singh Thapa.

 

“How come you have Amar Singh Thapa amongst your ancestors”? I asked Kunwar Nagendra of Arki (Baghal = Bagh + Hal) as we looked at the row of portraits of rulers of erstwhile principality. We were inside Arki palace in the formidable Arki fort 40 km from Shimla. From the window I could see beautiful Darbar hall with its famed fresco paintings (Though the building could do with some repairs).

“ The General ruled this place from 1808 -1815 and thus his portrait is in its rightful place” I could’nt help but marvel at the epitome of chivalry and fairplay in the thought process of the Kunwar, descendent of Rajputs from Dhar, MP who had carved out the small state hundreds of years ago. I had reached Arki tracing the footprints of my Grand father who had served the state as a revenue officer in 1930s under Raja Rajinder Singh.

Amar Singh Thapa

 Arki palace was residence of Amar Singh Thapa, the  General of victorious Gurkha army that had descended from Nepal and swept Kumaon followed by Garhwal and then most of the small hill states of himachal. Raja of Baghal had quit his state like dozens of other hill chiefs and taken shelter in the plains. They had no chance before the superior firepower, tactics, training and natural warlike attributes of the Gurkhas.

Gurkhas were great soldiers but poor administrators. They entrenched themselves in hill forts and in addition to general loot and pillage exacted a outrageous tax from the peasantry so that soon the wretched hill folks started quiting the land which became barren or forest. The cruelty of gurkhas was legendary. Executions were rampant to instill fear. It is recorded that once five chamars (Cobblers) were charged with cow slaughter and condemned to death. They were beheaded by a party of troops. After the execution the commander of the party threw great tantrum that he had no one left to behead! The troops then caught a poor cobbler selling sandals in neighbouring bazar who was then beheaded by the commander! Similarly a Gurkha soldier who tripped over a rock in path brought down his vengeance on the rock with a huge hammer till it was smothered to dust!

                                                Durbar, Arki Fort

 The British who were alarmed by growing Gurkha power in their vicinity and plagued by their raiding parties, finally gathered the hill Rajas with whatever resources they held and went on offensive under General Ochterlony against the Gurkhas. Under fierce resistance by Gurkhas who faught most ferociously in fort after fort, the British with their much larger army finally subdued the Gurkhas whose supply lines were stretched but not before being mighty impressed by the valour and strength of these hill people. After treaty of Sagauli, the Gurkhas returned to Nepal and hill rajas who had helped the British were restored to their states by granting sanads. The British inducted Gurkhas in their army as Brigade of the Gurkhas which served them with distinction in India and all over the world. Even today Gurkha regiments in Indian as well as British Armies remain the most decorated for bravery. The Gurkha conquest of Himachal is a forgotten chapter as far as himachalis are concerned.

The best description of Gurkha power has been provided by Field Marshal Sam Manikshaw– “ If someone says he knows no fear, He is either a liar or a Gurkha”. It’s a true tribute to the  intrepid Gurkha soldier.