ENIGMATIC RAJPUTANA
“Did you notice the
Jaipur flag flying atop the fort tower”? Asked Thakur Ajeet Singh Peelwa, my
friend and host who hails from an old feudal family of Jaipur. “Yes. It’s a peculiar
multi-coloured one. I wonder what those
colors stand for”. I had asked the manager, Jai Garh fort, Devraj Banna, to
whom I was referred by my another friend Col Sukhdev Rathore AKA Pappu Rathore who had recommended
the fort that’s located above the Amber (AKA Amer) fort to check out its unique water harvesting system and canon foundry.
Devraj wasn’t convincing when he had told me that green in the flag stood for
peace, red for valour, rest .. err...he wasn’t sure.
“Raja Man Singh, the
ruler of Amber was a trusted General of Akbar. After the killing of Birbal by
Afghans, he was sent to quell the tribes and extract revenge. For 10 years he
campaigned successfully and it culminated in 1585 in decisive defeat of combined Army
of five fiercest tribes in a particularly gruesome battle. The defeated
tribal warlords of Yusufzai, Karzai, Masuds, Afridi and Gazanas then each gave a piece of
their flags which were combined into a new flag of
the state - The 'Pachranga' or 5 colored and the same is flying atop Jaipur (Amber ) forts and palaces since then. It’s
a symbol of the unparalleled valour of Rajputs. Akbar had high regards for the Raja who was one of the navratans. He had also bestowed upon him the title of 'Mirza Raja. Further, the emperor also gave his niece Mubarak Begum to the Raja in matrimony. This is not much known” Disclosed the Thakur “The Raja brought back
enormous booty from Afghan campaign; the same treasures that were looted over
centuries by Afghan raisers, this way the Kachhawa Rajputs did enormous
service to the Nation by restoring its wealth. He also brought with him best of the workmen for casting canons". He continued.
The Thakur did not
realise he had lifted the veil from a mystery that was haunting me for decades. How in the
arid desert of Rajputana where agriculture was only sustenance level
historically, did the rulers gather so much wealth that is visible in their
palaces and forts. Now it dawned upon me that the successful
battles they waged had provided them with enormous booty in addition to the
taxes imposed on trade caravans passing through their territories to the west
Asia. Jaipur rulers were instrumental in suppressing vast kingdoms in Bihar, present day UP, Orissa and Bengal for Mughals and in the process enriched themselves.
Like Mehrangarh fort of Jodhpur, Jai Garh too is equally mammoth and awe inspiring. Its sheer size, the extensive ramparts, elaborate defences, palaces and temples are all mind boggling. But what I found most amazing was the covered stepwell or ‘Tanka’. It’s a massive tank that is 158ft x 138ft and 40ft deep and holds millions of litres of water that is harvested by an elaborate network of drains from all over the hill and palace The tanka could sustain the fort for months in case of siege. The size of the arches on which the roof of this tanka is supported is mammoth and its lasted for centuries! Devraj Banna had kindly sent with me a staff of the palace guard who had opened the Tanka for my appreciation. I had gone down twenty odd steps to reach the water and just out of respect had leaned down to touch the elixir of desert. Jai Garh fort is actually part of the fort complex on 'Cheel ka Tila' or the Eagle's Hill with Amber or Amer fort being the oldest and lowest. It is connected to higher and impregnable Jaigarh by a tunnel for escape of the Royals in case of attack. The third fort is 'Nahar Garh' meaning 'Abode of Tigers' which was made much later. Nahargarh too has equally impressive open stairwell or Tanka. Amber as such has a huge lake. I also marveled at the beautiful fairy tale 'Jal Mahal' in middle of another lake seen across verdant forests on the hill, down below in the plains.
Step well in Nahargarh CoveredTanka in Jai Garh
Devraj Banna had told
me about rumours that have floated about enormous treasure buried in Jai
Garh fort by the rulers. During
Emergency, Indira Gandhi threw Maharani Gayatri Devi in prison and sent Army
and Police to search for it. They dug up the fort for 3 months but didn’t get
anything. Even Pakistan learning about the mission staked a claim! However
later the government abandoned the effort and declared that nothing was found. But there is a catch. Just before calling off of the mission, Jaipur Delhi
Highway was closed for a day and there were rumours that many loaded trucks
were dispatched to Delhi. Though nothing can be verified.
My next port of call
was the canon foundry. Pappu sir had promised it was one of a kind. As I reached the spot, a palace guard, Bhairon Singh
approached and started off in heavily accented English to explain the place
“This is the historic foundry where the famous artillery guns of Amber were
cast by master craftsmen brought from Central Asia. World’s largest cannon –
The JAI BAAN canon is displayed there on the ramparts. It was test fired only once. It
ruptured the ear drums of firers who fell into the water tank due to blast.
Since then it was never required to be fired”. I requested Bhairon Singh to
speak in Hindi as I was more comfortable in it. As a result the horrific
assault on English was stopped by Bhairon and I could breathe easy. I was reminded of a
wise man saying that the Indians are exacting a perfect revenge upon the colonizers by murdering
the ‘English’ everywhere all the time!
JAI BAAN CANON
Now Bhairon explained the foundry step by step. He first showed me two enormous clay casts which were put in the furnace upright by workers and filled with molten metal. Then the cast barrel was transported to a shed where an intricate assembly of wheels and gears underground that were turned by four oxen finally resulted in the drill and bit to bore hole in the cast barrel. There were models to depict the process and old tools, bits, drills and instruments were displayed for view. Later when I saw the ‘Jai Baan’ arguably the 'Largest Canon in the World' I was floored by its size and ornamental designs carved on it with extreme dexterity. Made on orders of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, It weighs 50 tons, needed 100 kg of explosive to fire a cannon ball weighing 50 kg. The masterpiece is decorated with auspicious symbols, elephants and peacocks. A lotus motif frames the mouth of the barrel and floral motifs and patterns decorate the length, ending with a pair of birds at the back. It is a true symbol of astounding metallurgy of the times. It leaves you in no doubt that Artillery indeed is the "God of War".
Bhairon told me he belonged to Sawai Madhopur District, named after one of the rulers. He had a shop in the town when he became associated with election campaign of Princess Diya Kumari. Later, on her invitation, he shut the shop and took employment in the fort, He was staying in one of the thousands of rooms in the property. Jai Garh palace is with the royals unlike Amber and Nahargarh which were taken over by the government.
JAL MAHAL
By evening,Devraj Banna had dropped me at Peelwa Garden the abode of Peelwas in the heart of city in his military auction open jeep, a must have for any Rajput worth his salt. “ Hukum, I picked it in 1985 from Army auction. A Toyota C3 submarine engine lies below the bonnet, fixed by Jaipur mechanics. It gives 20 kmpl and has never ditched be. I daily travel from my 100 acre farm to Jai Garh in it. We have two borewells for irrigation. I belong to a Thikanadar family of Jaipur and we are ancestral employees of the Royal House ” He had disclosed. Like many Rajasthan Rajputs, his niece was married in a place close to my home in Himachal.
Later in the evening, enjoying Thakur Ajit Singh delivering Prithwiraj Kapur's legendary dialogues as Akbar in movie 'Mughl-e- Azam', I took a sip of Johny Walker in the lawns of ‘Karuna Niwas’, his home in 'Peelwa Garden'. Peelwa Garden is in the land acquired by his Great Grandfather Prime Minister of the state in 19th century in fringes of city for relaxation. Ajit along with his brothers and cousins has inherited a part of it. There are 4 heritage hotels run by family in the complex. His house was rented by Maharaja of Karauli for a long time. Now his daughter runs a highly successful French Bakery “O Baque” and there are plans to convert the house into a Bar cum Restaurant. The savories and cakes being sent by the bakery to us to accompany the drinks were truly out of the world. After our drink we checked out the "Clock Tower" Bar cum restaurant in Peelwa Garden. The microbrewery there offered exquisite Rose and Mango flavour beer which were so tasty and nice smelling that you can't have regular beer again. "There are 16 such microbreweries in Jaipur today" Disclosed the manager who was an expert brewer. I made a note to next time check out microbreweries in my home town Shimla.
" Thakur sahab,Whats that tiny
flag that flutters atop the pachranga”? I had seen it at Jai Garh and had meant
to clarify from him.
I could not but
marvel at the unique honour bestowed by Aurangzeb. Since past 500 years
his General is being revered by the world as “Sawai”. Even his descendents enjoy the prefix in perpetuity!!!! I can not think of any
parallel in the world!!
HH Sawai Padmanabh Singh, Grandson of HH Brig Sawai Bhavani Singh, 26 year old young, urbane and particularly handsome polo enthusiast is the current titular King of Jaipur. His mother Princess Diya Kumari is a Deputy CM of Rajasthan. The royal family goes to great length to maintain the heritage and culture of Rajputs. Traditional festivals and ceremonies are celebrated with all requisite pomp and gaiety in City Palace and Jai Garh and is a driver of Rajasthan Tourism that is the major source of earning for the state and public. Jagirdars like Thakur Ajit Singh are the proud cogs in the wheel of royal jamboree. He is the grandest Dandy I know who has over the years collected and personally designed a plethora of classical Rajput dresses and accouterments which would make any king envious. The Thakur looks, thinks and behaves like 'Eklavya' played by Amitabh Bachhan in movie from same name . As Kipling said –“ Providence created the Maharajas to offer mankind a spectacle”! And I am not complaining! Let the party continue for ever!
Thakur with Maharaja
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