THREE ICONIC BRIDGES OF KASHMIR

                                     THREE ICONIC BRIDGES OF KASHMIR

BY WARVET

Bridges are more than mere engineering marvels; they are powerful symbols that connect people and places both physically and metaphorically. Across the globe, iconic bridges stand as testaments to human ingenuity, cultural identity and the aspiration for progress. Kashmir being a riverine pradise, bridges have played most important role in day to day life. Jhelum or Vitasta or Vyth is the lifeline that traverses the valley from South to North. Historically there used to be bridges made of floating boats tethered together. Permanent, fixed cantilever bridges were made beginning medieval era. Here I want to introduce readers to three iconic bridges of Kashmir. They are my favourites (Yeah I do have favourite bridges!).

I ZERO BRIDGE

It’s the most beautiful and most weirdly named bridge I ever laid my eyes on. It’s an old world wooden bridge built in 1950s by the much loved and much hated Prime Minister of J&K – GM Bakshi. The bridge was built with Deodar logs in much the same fashion as was done by successive Sultans and Mughal governors since centuries. ‘There were 7 bridges across Jhelum in Srinagar city historically. This new bridge was the most upstream bridge, before Bridge No 1 that was Amira Kadal   built by Mughal Governor Amira Khan (1774). So it came to be known as “Zero Bridge’! my old friend and Man Friday for Historic Kashmir, the wizard had lifted  the veil of mystery one day as we sipped coffee one summer evening in the ‘Zero Point Café’ on the bridge.

Yes, you guessed it right – there are a number of eating joints right on top of the bridge which is now open for pedestrians only and was modified into a ‘Hanging Food Plaza’ during G20 summit by Modiji’s regime. It follows the tradition of earlier bridges which had regular shops. The bridge is hugely popular with local couple who get into ornate Kashmir style wooden kiosks overlooking the river for a tete-a-teet on breezy summer evenings. On one end of the bridge is another typically named joint – ‘Zero Degree’ handing out Ice creams whereas at other end is the famous ‘Waffle Company’ for the famous hot chocolate waffles that dissolve in your mouth.

The waterway joining Dal lake with Jhelum is just next to the bridge. Water level of Jhelum is continuously monitored by the Flood and Irrigation department here with automated instruments. On one side is the erstwhile British residency whereas on other is the Amar Singh Club. Some better Jhelum houseboats are moored below the cantilever bridge. One can go on a waik along the river on nice walk ways on right bank bund as was done by European toruists during the Raj.

 

                                             

II        Kaman Aman Setu

The air was thick with hooters and sirens blaring loudly. As we looked at the highway through concertina coil from our perch on the sentry post atop the 12 ft high security wall in Pattan, North Kashmir, two escort Gypsies followed by QRT sped past. It was followed closely by the “Karvan - e - Aman’ bus with another QRT and ambulances and another QRT. Helicopters were hovering in the sky keeping a close watch on the Vajpayee initiative. The bus was on way to Muzaffarabad through the newly constructed bridge that was named ‘Aman Setu’ that was further towards the LOC from last Indian town – Uri. Vajpayee had offered an olive branch to Kashmiris in the form of his philosophy of ‘ Kashmiriyat, Insaniyat and Jamhooriyat. He had announced a unilateral caesefire for the month of Ramzan and with Nawaz Sharief, opened up borders for travel by road. Kashmiris were very enthusiastic about the move as lot of divided families were looking forward to meet their separated kith and kin. Land trade was also being anticipated to bring business. Our neighbour Army Engineer Regiment had worked round the clock to build the bridge christened ‘Kaman Aman Setu’ after legendary Lt Col Kaman Singh Pathania, MVC of Garhwal Rifles who was martyred in the area.

That was in April 2005. The bus service was stopped in 2019 by Pakistan following abrogation of Article 370 and revocation of statehood of Jammu and Kashmir by Indian Parliament. Cross border trade was also discontinued by India as it came to light that it was being used to fund terrorism by over billing and hawala transactions. There also were instances of smuggling of narcotics and weapons/ammunition. It seems nothing can work with nasty neighbours and Kashmiris have the curse of an incorrigibly evil one.

 

When I visited the bridge in 2024 as part of a bike rally to celebrate Kargil Vijay Diwas, the place was deserted. The bridge was sealed. The museum and other facilities were empty though tourists do visit the place for its heritage value. A huge bill board across the Nullah screamed in Urdu – “Pakistan se Rishta Kya – La Illah Ilallah!. “They are a theocratic state” Offered the guide, Parvez “ Look at our response to them” He pointed to a huge counter bill board over our head. It said –“Mazhab Nahi Sikhata, Apas mei Bair Rakhna” in Roman. I wondered when will Pakistan understand the language of humanity.

‘Jhelum Valley Cart Road’ used to pass this location post 1920s and was the main route to reach Srinagar from India, through Ravalpindi. Initially Tongas used to ply on the route with Dak Bungalows and relief horses positioned at appropriate distances. Baramulla onwards the travel used to by large boats called Doongas over Jhelum. When Maharaja had sent his Chief of Staff, Brigadier Rajinder Singh from Srinagar to stop the Tribal raiders with meagre force, he had told the General to guard the state to last man. The great soldier fought 5000 raiders with 3 officers , 200 assorted men, a section of MMG and a section of 3 inch mortars. He kept withdrawing tactically till Mahura power house on 24 Oct 1948 (First Hydroelectric Powerhouse in Asia as told to me by the wizard) when the staff confusing him for raiders switched off the power plunging Srinagar palace in darkness. Maharaja was then celebrating Dussehra and people thought all was lost. The Brigadier laid down his life near Buniyar, thick in action (An Army museum and war memorial with a light and sound show is functional now in Buniyar). However, the 3 days for which he stalled the attackers is recognised as the sole reason why Kashmir is today with us as it enabled signing of accession by the Maharaja and arrival of Indian ground forces. Brigadier Rajinder Singh was recipient of first Maha Vir Chakra of India for his bravery.

 

III Chenab Railway Bridge

Contrary to above two bridges that are important from humanitarian angle, this bridge is an engineering marvel and a game changer for valley. It is ‘Highest Single Arch Railway Bridge’ in the world and heralds India’s entry in the list of super builder countries. It is 1178 ft or 359 mtr high i.e. 35 mtr taller than Eiffel Tower. It can withstand simulated wind speed of 266km/h. It bridges the Chenab, one of the 5 rivers of Punjab and is part of 272 km ambitious Jammu Baramulla Railway line. Railway is already operating between Banihal and Baramulla in valley since more than a decade and providing comfortable and cheap travel option to people. Contrary to fears of administration, militants have never attacked this lifeline although stringent security measures are always in place to guard it. With connection of last few miles remaining, Valley will be seamlessly connected with Rest of India. This railway may connect Kashmiris with rest of India like nothing or no one earlier has been able to do. 7/10 Kashmiri earns his livelihood from perishable fruits. Railways is expected to be a boon for fruit trade once completed. Its also going to be boost for Border Security as movement of troops and Army stores is going to be smooth and efficient.

Unlike the road, travel by train exposes one to uninterrupted beautiful landscape. Last winter, I could undertake the Srinagar to Banihal train journey during snowfall. I am certain the views that I enjoyed on that ride will be no less than Eurorail in Switzerland. And it cost me less than a couple of 100 Rs bothways. As I say, ‘Venturing Bird gets the Worm.

PS - And as I end, I would like to also introduce to 3^rd bridge on the Jhelum in Srinagar – Fateh Kadal named after Fateh Khan. On this bridge, during early Dogra rule used to swing the bodies of those who had been convicted of killing cows, as a warning to the citizens. The gruesome practice was done away with before end of 19^th century though. So whenever you visit valley try to see atleast one of these beauties!