THREE ICONIC ANCIENT KASHMIR TEMPLES BY WARVET

 

THREE ICONIC ANCIENT TEMPLES OF KASHMIR

BY WARVET

 

Although almost all of the twenty thousand ancient temples existing in Kashmir were destroyed by radical rulers over centuries, three of them stand unmolested today belying time. These ancient treasures are pristine timeless beauties. Reasons for their escape from destruction are interesting.

 

SHANKARACHARYA TEMPLE

‘Have you been to Shankaracharya Temple? The 256 stairs that lead to the temple were constructed by me!’ Said the Maharaja. He prefers to be addressed as ‘Dr Karan Singh’. The nonagenarian in a way Citizen No 1 of J&K told me, not for the first time. Of all the great things he has done for preservation and furtherance of Hindu places of worship in Kashmir through his ‘Dharmarth Trust’, Shankaracharya Temple, that is situated atop the hill on which his palace – ‘Karan Mahal’ is situated, is closest to his heart.  The palace is more of a big British bungalow overlooking acres and acres of Apple orchards in one of the costliest real estate in India extending to the banks of the Dal. Through the window of his study where we were having the discussion I could see the other side of the ridge – right into the Cantonment that was made by his father, ruler of the second largest princely state, Lieutenant-General His Highness Raj Rajeshwar Maharajadhiraj Maharaja Shri Hari Singhji Bahadur Indar Mahindar, Sipar-i-Saltanat-i-Inglishia, GCSI, GCIE, GCVO, LLD.

‘You know, this has been my abode since childhood. My father was a strict disciplinarian. He thought if I stayed with parents, I will not be tough. So he put me in this palace along with two of my cousins under care of British Guardian and tutors. This palace was then called ‘Taley Manzil’ in honour of the Nawab of Palanpur, a close friend of father. I was allowed to meet my mother only twice a week for a few hours!’ he disclosed with a distant look in his eyes. ‘It’s the blessing of Mahadev that I am hale and hearty at this age although during my early life, my health was quite  precarious.

As I came out, I looked towards the top of the hill where road leading to the temple was seen winding through the Deodar forest. The road too was constructed by the gentleman from whom I had taken leave when he was the ‘Sadar e Riyasat’ in 1969.

Shankaracharya Temple is believed to be originally constructed in 371 BC and is the oldest place of worship in Kashmir. It’s a Shiva temple built by King Gopaditya. Local muslims call it ‘Takht e Suleiman’ or ‘Solomons Throne’ and maybe that’s why it was saved from the destructive hands of Sikandar Butshikon – the idol breaker zealot ruler. Today this temple that overlooks Srinagar and valley from its 300 mtr perch is a symbol of harmony visible from any corner of city and is thronged by tourists and devotees. The rock temple has inside the sanctum a huge  saligram Shivlinga that was brought and installed during the Dogra Rule. The premises offer breathtaking views of the river, the lake and the city.

It is believed that saint Adi Shankaracharya visited the shrine in 8^th century and meditated there. Since then its associated with him.

 

BUNIYAR TEMPLE

‘This Shiva Temple is one of the oldest shrines in Kashmir. It was built in between 9^th and 12th century. The rock temple was crafted without any cement or lime by ‘Lock and Key’ technique. Built in the ‘Gandharva Shaili, the sanctum is surrounded by 53 beautiful rock cells, each original havig a deity. There were stone stairs right up to the banks of Vitasta (Jhelum) down below and scores of priests were involved in dail worship’ briefed Captain Avishkar. I was there as a part of ‘Kargil Vijay Divas Motorcycle Rally along with 50 more riders on way to the border.

The ancient temple in Buniyar, near Uri is an architectural marvel. The temple withstood vagaries of nature and by a quirk of fate also escaped vandalism that befell other archeological treasures. It was completely buried in a massive landslide few hundred years back and was rediscovered in 1835 by Karl Alexander Hugel. The Dogra ruler then excavated the structure and restored it. Another ancient Shiva Temple – 'Data Mandir' is in vicinity.

The temple is part of an enclosure which now has a war memorial and museum with Light and Sound Show. It was here that valiant troops of J&K State Forces under the courageous Brig Rajinder Singh, First recipient of Mahavir Chakra had taken shelter while engaging the ‘tribal’ raiders from Pakistan in1948.  

 

PANDRATHAN TEMPLE

                     

Its an acient Shiva Temple in Badami Bagh Cantonment, Srinagar. Infact, this was the site of original capital city and was called ‘Purana Adhisthana’ which got corrupted to Pandrethan.  A most beautiful pristine marvel in rock, its built in Greek style and looks like a pagoda. It was built around 10^th century CE by Meru, a minister and is also called Meruvardhanaswami temple.  Its placed in midst of a pond of natural spring, surrounded by ancient Chinars. Adjoining it, is the sublime 15 Corps war memorial sited very by thoughtfully.

The temple has a two-storied pyramidal roof, intricate sculptures on the pillars and walls, and arches that are examples of classic Kashmiri architecture. The temple has undergone repairs in early 20^th century and large number of buried sculptures have been found in vicinity. How the temple escaped destruction is a mystery. But now the temple is maintained in pristine condition by Indian Army. Regular daily arati is conducted by Army priest and ardent devotees. It’s a haven of peace and tranquillity.