THREE ICONIC MUSLIM RISHIS OF KASHMIR

 

THREE ICONIC MUSLIM RISHIS OF KASHMIR

BY WARVET

 

‘Welcome To Sheikh Ul Uloom International Airport’ greeted the huge hoarding as I entered the Arrival area of Srinagar Airport. It was after 20 years that I had returned. And I remembered it was simply ‘Srinagar Airport’ those days. Over the next few months, as I delved deeper into the place’s society, culture and history  as has become my wont over the years, I discovered it was named after the patron saint of ‘Chrar e Sharif’ – that most revered shrine of Saint Noor u Din Wali AKA Nand Rishi! A muslim Rishi!! I was flummoxed.  I had often heard about ‘Kashmiriyat’ -  that syncretic elusive idea of tolerance that is considered all encompassing and  unique to Kashmir and has been given as panacea for the macabre dance of violence that has engulfed the ‘Heaven on Earth’ for past few decades. Vajpayee was a great proponent of Kashmiriyat and clubbing it with Insaniyat (Humanity) and Zamhuriyat (Democracy) had given what we can call ‘Vajpayee Doctrine’. The concept had struck a chord with Kashmiris who have since considered Vajpayee as a Friend of Kashmir. Even PM Modi realises the positive influence of Rishis and I too wish that their teachings should be revived and popularised to unshackle the valley from violence and intolerance. That will give rebirth to  the true 'Zannat"

Rishi Tradition is unique to Kashmir as in medieval period when Bhakti movement was gaining ground in rest of India, there had risen Baba Noor u Din in the valley. He, as an infant had refused his mothers milk and was breast fed by the most revered Laleshwari or Lal Ded, the Hindu mystic and poetess revered by all kashmiris. Both muslims and Hindus were disciples of Nand Rishi who gave birth to Rishi tradition in Kashmir. These Rishis were ascetics who shunned all worldly things and spent time in isolation, meditating and praying to God. They were vegetarians and fasted for weeks in pursuit of divine. There are shrines of around 100 Rishis in Kashmir which are thronged by the masses. They rejected outward religiosity and emphasized love and devotion to God and compassion towards all fellow human beings.  These Rishis were natives, sons of soil who are unlike the sufis who came from central Asia or Iran. Shrines of these Rishis are beautifully made with local Deodar wood with best of Kashmiri woodcraft. A Kashmiri is more at home in these Ziyarats than a mosque and so had to face derison from foreign militants who taunted them that they had not shunned their Hindu mentality. Infact the abhorrance for violence was so strong even amongst muslims till 150 years back that the village mullah did all the slaughtering of even poultry for villagers who could not stand the sight of blood! Kashmir is a perfect example of The damage to the psyche due to radicalisation. The urs of these Rishis are celebrated with much pomp and gaeity and attract lakhs of devotees to fairs that are organised on the occasion.

‘Chrar e Sharif’ is around 40 km from Srinagar , on higher ground and is surrounded by apple orchards spread all around. There's a massive ziyarat of Dargah and life in whole town revolves around the shrine. The shrine had remained in National News for weeks when in 1995 it was occupied by Afghan militant ‘Mast Gul’ who was surrounded by security forces. The siege remained inconclusive when the militants set the shrine to fire and escaped. It was a very sad episode for Kashmiris who later built a new structure that is massive, modern and beautifully done. Kashmiri wooden architecture and design, beautiful Khatamband ceiling, intricate carpets ensconce the graves of the Baba and his ‘khalifas’ or disciples.

When we visited the shrine 3 months back, there was a group of pilgrims led by a ‘peer’ or hereditary caretaker who were singing a beautiful hymn. I sat on the thick wall to wall carpet, closed my eyes and meditated. Emerging from the ziyarat we enjoyed the staple Prasad of Halwa paratha with abandon. No tension of the calories for once!

Makhdoom Sahib is one of the most famous khalifa and his shrine is on Hari Parbat in centre of Srinagar. One winter Sunday morning I picked my bicycle and proceeded towards the shrine. I crossed the Gurudwara Chhati Padshahi, went through Sangeen Darwaza made by Akbar as entry to his fort called Nagar. In Persian its written at the gate that no forced labour was used and fair wages paid to Kashmiri labourers. I changed gears and climbed up. Then I took to the stairs and went past the beggars and grain sellers for pigeons who throng the place and reached the abandoned mosque of ‘Mulla Shah’. It’s a beautiful granite mosque with a water tank for wuzu in front and massive Chinar trees providing shade. Dara Shikoh, the tolerant Mughal prince revered Mulla Shah with whom he used to confer on spiritual matters in ‘Peer Mahal’ near Chashma Shahi. For the Guru, he had got the mosque made which lies under ASI lock these days. An old Kashmiri in regulation brown pheran was sitting on parapet and I struck conversation with him. He disclosed that he was a retired Government Engineer. I was surprised when he told me that he had retired 3 years back. ‘ You think I look older’ He asked. I confessed he was right. ‘The disturbance we have endured for 3 decades has aged us kashmiris prematurely’ he observed.

‘But you were better off as a government servant. Regular salary. Medical and financial security for your family’ I said.

‘You are right. But still you are anxious when your child is delayed from college. Then there was extortion!’ He disclosed.

Yeah! I agreed. Ahmed told me his family had gone to shrine. He didn’t feel like going and was waiting for them.

We discussed politics. He said Modi was a good leader. But his only drawback was that he was communal. I asked him whether muslims were discriminated in government schemes. Wasn't it natural that India with 80 percent Hindus will be governed as per some Hindu influence? Were we not far better than Pakistan? If Kashmiris suffered it was due to poor leadership. The successive Muslim CMs could have easily chosen path of development rather than using religion for vested interests.

I had told him I was a Professor of History visiting Kashmir University for a conference.

Ahmad agreed to my hypothesis. He went further and told me he had observed the scene for 30 years and done some research. Not a single separatist leader had sent his children for Jihad. They all studied abroad and worked overseas or even as J&K Government employees!

‘Modi has divine support’ In Kashmir where people came on roads to protest over trifles, post abrogation of article 370 there was not a single stone pelting incident in entire valley! It was work of God' He opined.

‘Do you think the Arabs, custodians of Islamic holy places act always as per the religion?

‘Not at all. I have been to Haj.  I made acquaintance with a Saudi guy from extended Royal family. When he came to know I am from Kashmir he told me he was American citizen on a visit after 20 years. He invited me to a party in evening in an upscale hotel. When I reached there, I saw food being served in Gold plates. But the stench of alcohol made me retch and I made for the gate. The security won’t allow me to leave. With much pestering I was able to escape. My Haj was ruined’ said Ahmad.

I took his leave and climbed to the ziyarat. Made obesience to the saint and his family resting in peace. As I went round the sanctum Santorum, a fat guy clad in black pheran and sitting in a corner beckoned me. As I went to him he asked who I was and what for I was there. I told him I was a tourist and a Hindu.

He gave me some Prasad and asked for alms. I told him I intended to donate and get a receipt. He still pestered. I Asked him who he was. ‘I am one of the Peers’ He disclosed. I relented and gifted him 100 Rs  and moved out. Its better to not make a scene I thought. And the Peer also needs some extra pocket money.

The third Baba I visited is Baba Zainudin of the imposing citadel like shrine of ‘Aishmukam’ near Pahalgam. The shrine shot to fame when it was featured in Salman Khan starrer ‘Bajrangi Bhaijaan’ with a Qawali by Adnan Sami. Zai Singh was a Hindu Kishtwar prince who had fallen seriously sick and was on death bed. The queen mother took him to Nand Rishi who treated him. Thence Jai Singh converted to Islam and became a disciple with name - Zainudin. The approach to shrine is steep stairway of around 500 mtr one has to climb. Both sides  are lined with shops selling toys, incense sticks, halwa parantha, pakodas etc like any temple.  Lot of schools from all over the valley had brought children on visit. Reyan showed me school girls swooning over framed photographs of Pakistani cricketers. “Not a single Indian Cricketer is there’ He lamented.

Sure enough there was no Dhoni, Virat, Shikhar Dhawan – None of the Men in Blue.

Only Babar, Abrar , Afridi in Green!!!

 Baba was sent to Aishmuqam by Nand Rishi where in a deep cave infested with snakes he meditated and prayed for long time. He did many miracles and was revered by the locals. He is known for his long fasts in pursuit of spirituality. There are 5 relics of Baba for display. I found a wooden ‘Roti’ as most interesting. The Baba used to tie it to tummy when after days of fasting he felt like eating!!! Urs of Baba are most revered. That evening the people of surrounding villages light wooden torches and whole mountains and forests are lighted in a centuries old ceremony. Both muslims and Hindus participate in the ritual and I am told the sight is bewitching. People come from afar to visit the shrine as no one returns empty handed from Aishmuqam.

All this was told to us by one of the peers who had insisted on giving us a guided tour when I told him about being  a Hindu and an Army Officer. Aishmuqam has an Army camp nearby and the management has special relation with the Army.

Finally as we took our leave, the Peer presented us with Prasad and a box of incense sticks.

“At last an Indian Cricketer’ – Exclaimed Reyan!

Sure enough. There was Dhoni on the Incense stick box – selling another product to us!!!