PARADISE WITHIN JANNAT
PARADISE WITHIN JANNAT
“ Paradise isn’t lost; It’s frozen in Gulmarg”
As I drew the
curtains aside after a good night’s sleep in the cosy Army guest room, I was
bowled over by the white snow covered Himalayas that covered the horizon. It
was the moment just before sunrise and had all the elements of that high
altitude morning. I rushed outside to the wooden patio and filled my lungs with
the Deodar scented air. A giant tricolour was fluttering in the crisp air. The
mighty Apharvat range was in front of me in all grandeur of its white cloak. I
looked at its gentle slopes that came towards the Gulmarg bowl. There were a
number of gullies with conifer forests. Amongst them were the world renowned
ski slopes which drew enthusiasts from all over the world. Commandos of the
Indian Army trained there for Mountain Warfare. The courses run by ‘High
Altitude Warfare School’ were considered tougher than the ‘Para’ Courses! Only
the Toughest of the Tough passed. 70 percent of the selected aspirants failed!
Gulmarg or the
‘Meadow of Flowers’ is the Gem of Kashmir – I call it the ‘Paradise of Jannat’.
It’s equally charming in each season. It’s a huge meadow above 9000 metre
that’s well preserved by the state or now UT. The Maharaja used to shift here
during peak summers when Srinagar became sultry for His Highness!. It was here that Sheikh was arrested in
1953 when Nehru suspected his friend to be hobnobbing with the Americans in
pursuit of some sort of Independence. It was a favourite haunt of the British
and Europeans during the Raj. Log huts were available for hiring. There were
lot of sports and Maharaja threw enough parties in his palace. Later he allowed
them to have a church too. The old church is a cute little wood and stone
building overlooking the meadow. It recently got a new roof.
Today morning as I with both my sons was skiing in the resort town, the Ski lift was not functioning and I picked my Skis and started up the slope. A tall youth walking besides me asked me if I were a local. I said I was kind of. He told me he was a software guy from Delhi and worked in an MNC. ‘You are not Voting’ I had asked. ‘No I skipped’ said he. ‘I wouldn’t have done it’ I told him point blank. ‘What a shame’ I thought. It’s because of educated people like him that the country suffers worst kind of politicians. Shameful.
Gulmarg Palace
I was surprised by
the well-stocked Ski shop of JK Tourism department. They give you ski, boots
and ski sticks for 300 Rs for a day! Its half rate for kids! The shop is so
well stocked and the staff nice. Reyan lost a stick. The Kashmiri gentleman who was incharge waived off the fine that could have gone up to a couple of thousands! The number
of young local boys and girls skiing is astonishing. There are so many slopes
with ski lifts. And then you can go to phase 2 and 3 in the Gondola and come
down like Omar the CM. The well skilled and the well-endowed take helicopter to
reach virgin heights and then zip zap zoom down. The delight is unmatched but fraught
with risk. Serious and fatal injuries do occur. Weather changes fast in alpine
heights and Avalanche accidents too are not unheard. Ah well, ‘No Pain No Gain’ or still
better our very own – ‘Veer Bhogya Vasundhara’.
We moved to the
second slope adjacent to the beginner. It’s way too steep. ‘This year there’s not enough snow
so the ski lift here isn’t functioning’ said the guide. It’s the same story of
Climate Change everywhere. At this pace, I think in a couple of hundred years
our evergreen Himalayan great rivers too will disappear. Anyway, the slope
looked dizzy. ‘Are you up to it’? I asked Rey as a local lad pushed himself and
went zig zagging to the bottom. ‘Of course’ Rey was confident. So I sent him.
He went easily. Shreyas followed. He managed well but in the end couldn’t turn
and crashed into a wall of snow. Now it was my turn. I started nicely but
gained speed rapidly. Midway I was shocked to see some nasty bumps ahead owing
to sub optimal snow and after failing to maintain balance crashed sideway and slided for an eternity amidst flying snow that sprayed my goggles.
On our way up, we
were joined by a couple dragging their trolleys. It was a young pair and were
coming from Nedous Hotel. ‘That’s a historic hotel you know’ I talked to the
lad. It was the first hotel of Kashmir. By the Czech gentleman who owned hotels
in Lahore, Ravalpindi and Srinagar. 'Did you stay in the old building? Was the
room OK'? I recalled the old building with local architecture and a rugged interior with crude furniture that looked late 19th century original. ‘Yes. It was ok. We also selected it for heritage. However food is too
expensive. We were ripped for breakfast. Today we have booking in other hotel'.
They were software people from Bangalore. I told the lad to not get carried
over with my talk and wait for the lady nay girl. Or she would give him a tough time. She was
clearly out of breath pulling the strolley and would be happy if he at least
could wait for her. They didn’t even look married! Maybe friends having a good
time.
In the evening we went
to “Hotel Highland Park’ that’s on the top of meadow and also belongs to the
Nedou family. It has an old world charm unlike the 5 star Khyber. 'What does Sibghat mean'? I asked the waiter, checking his name tab. Over time I have developed habit of inquiring Kashmiris about meaning of their beautiful exotic nammes. Many commoners have no clue. Then I google it and tell them. They are pleased and surprised invariably. 'It means 'colours of Allah'. Quran describes colours as divinely beautiful' He told us. 'Its a beautiful name' I said. The view from the wood fire heated restaurant is unparalleled. As we soaked it, we all sat - talking, laughing and remembering the many thrilling events of the day over kahwa and hot chocolate.
Gulmarg – I really
love you and can’t have enough of you. Adios - Till we meet again.
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