PARADISE WITHIN JANNAT

 


PARADISE WITHIN JANNAT


“ Paradise isn’t lost; It’s frozen in Gulmarg”

 

As I drew the curtains aside after a good night’s sleep in the cosy Army guest room, I was bowled over by the white snow covered Himalayas that covered the horizon. It was the moment just before sunrise and had all the elements of that high altitude morning. I rushed outside to the wooden patio and filled my lungs with the Deodar scented air. A giant tricolour was fluttering in the crisp air. The mighty Apharvat range was in front of me in all grandeur of its white cloak. I looked at its gentle slopes that came towards the Gulmarg bowl. There were a number of gullies with conifer forests. Amongst them were the world renowned ski slopes which drew enthusiasts from all over the world. Commandos of the Indian Army trained there for Mountain Warfare. The courses run by ‘High Altitude Warfare School’ were considered tougher than the ‘Para’ Courses! Only the Toughest of the Tough passed. 70 percent of the selected aspirants failed!


Gulmarg or the ‘Meadow of Flowers’ is the Gem of Kashmir – I call it the ‘Paradise of Jannat’. It’s equally charming in each season. It’s a huge meadow above 9000 metre that’s well preserved by the state or now UT. The Maharaja used to shift here during peak summers when Srinagar became sultry for His Highness!. It was here that Sheikh was arrested in 1953 when Nehru suspected his friend to be hobnobbing with the Americans in pursuit of some sort of Independence. It was a favourite haunt of the British and Europeans during the Raj. Log huts were available for hiring. There were lot of sports and Maharaja threw enough parties in his palace. Later he allowed them to have a church too. The old church is a cute little wood and stone building overlooking the meadow. It recently got a new roof.

                       


Today morning as I with both my sons was skiing in the resort town, the Ski lift was not functioning and I picked my Skis and started up the slope. A tall youth walking besides me asked me if I were a local. I said I was kind of. He told me he was a software guy from Delhi and worked in an MNC. ‘You are not Voting’ I had asked. ‘No I skipped’ said he. ‘I wouldn’t have done it’ I told him point blank.  ‘What a shame’ I thought. It’s because of educated people like him that the country suffers worst kind of politicians. Shameful.

                      Gulmarg Palace

I was surprised by the well-stocked Ski shop of JK Tourism department. They give you ski, boots and ski sticks for 300 Rs for a day! Its half rate for kids! The shop is so well stocked and the staff nice. Reyan lost a stick. The Kashmiri gentleman who was incharge waived off the fine that could have gone up to a couple of thousands! The number of young local boys and girls skiing is astonishing. There are so many slopes with ski lifts. And then you can go to phase 2 and 3 in the Gondola and come down like Omar the CM. The well skilled and the well-endowed take helicopter to reach virgin heights and then zip zap zoom down. The delight is unmatched but fraught with risk. Serious and fatal injuries do occur. Weather changes fast in alpine heights and Avalanche accidents too are not unheard. Ah well, ‘No Pain No Gain’ or still better our very own – ‘Veer Bhogya Vasundhara’.


We moved to the second slope adjacent to the beginner. It’s way too steep. ‘This year there’s not enough snow so the ski lift here isn’t functioning’ said the guide. It’s the same story of Climate Change everywhere. At this pace, I think in a couple of hundred years our evergreen Himalayan great rivers too will disappear. Anyway, the slope looked dizzy. ‘Are you up to it’? I asked Rey as a local lad pushed himself and went zig zagging to the bottom. ‘Of course’ Rey was confident. So I sent him. He went easily. Shreyas followed. He managed well but in the end couldn’t turn and crashed into a wall of snow. Now it was my turn. I started nicely but gained speed rapidly. Midway I was shocked to see some nasty bumps ahead owing to sub optimal snow and after failing to maintain balance crashed sideway and slided for an eternity amidst flying snow that sprayed my goggles.

On our way up, we were joined by a couple dragging their trolleys. It was a young pair and were coming from Nedous Hotel. ‘That’s a historic hotel you know’ I talked to the lad. It was the first hotel of Kashmir. By the Czech gentleman who owned hotels in Lahore, Ravalpindi and Srinagar. 'Did you stay in the old building? Was the room OK'? I recalled the old building with local architecture and a rugged interior with crude furniture that looked late 19th century original. ‘Yes. It was ok. We also selected it for heritage. However food is too expensive. We were ripped for breakfast. Today we have booking in other hotel'. They were software people from Bangalore. I told the lad to not get carried over with my talk and wait for the lady nay girl.  Or she would give him a tough time. She was clearly out of breath pulling the strolley and would be happy if he at least could wait for her. They didn’t even look married! Maybe friends having a good time.


Nedou Hotel

Not many people know but Begum Akbar Jahan Abdullah, wife of Sheikh Abdullah was grand daughter of Mr Nedou. She was also a successful politician who was his pillar of strength 'Sher e Kashmir' in his tough times. She was twice elected MP. She was given honorific title – ‘Madar e Meherban’ by Kashmiris.



View from Highland Park

In the evening we went to “Hotel Highland Park’ that’s on the top of meadow and also belongs to the Nedou family. It has an old world charm unlike the 5 star Khyber. 'What does Sibghat mean'? I asked the waiter, checking his name tab. Over time I have developed habit of inquiring Kashmiris about meaning of their beautiful exotic nammes. Many commoners have no clue. Then I google it and tell them. They are pleased and surprised invariably. 'It means 'colours of Allah'. Quran describes colours as divinely beautiful' He told us. 'Its a beautiful name' I said. The view from the wood fire heated restaurant is unparalleled. As we soaked it, we all sat - talking, laughing and remembering the many thrilling events of the day over kahwa and hot chocolate.

Gulmarg – I really love you and can’t have enough of you. Adios - Till we meet again.

                             

Comments

As always a wonderful blog by warvet. Brought to life my time in Gulmarg in 1983-86. Highland Park was there, Nedous was there. Khyber was not there. The slopes were as described, but other than a basic chairlift only halfway , to Khelanmarg there was no other ski lift. Planning for the lift to Aparwat was on. HAWS where I was posted had a improvised lift on the beginners slope powered by a Shaktiman truck!! For long ski runs you had to lift your skis and trudged up to Khelanmarg.
Anonymous said…
Jannat Kahin Hai To Dharti Par Gulmarg Mey .. Very Nicely Articulated And Easily Comprehensible Blog ..
Thomas K Thomas said…
Great...a detailed insight to history of gulmarg too...really absorbing stuff..👌👏🏾
Ravish Chhajed said…
Beautifully written with a sense of responsibility even during vacation, it requires courage and conviction to make somebody realise (that he should have voted) you are meeting for the first time . Amazing description of jannat with puns in between which is your USP. Keep writing.
Vikas Thakur said…
Thank you esteemed readers
No doubt Gulmarg is JANAT on the earth but what’s the worry, its frequent changes in the weather, lesser and lesser snow every year, in Himachal we have not seen any snow for last three years in the middle belt. Water sources drying up fast , coming years will be more harsh
Vikramjeet said…
Never been to this part of J&K, the lure of Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg & Leh Ladakh is strong maybe very soon I see this jannat fr myself
PK said…
Beautifully described. Am awaiting my maiden trip 🤗
Anonymous said…
Beautifully penned 👌👏
Himanshu Misra said…
Beautifully penned 👌👏🙏
G Kannan said…
Lovely blog of your visit to Gulmarg sir! You have great knack of penning down your visit to places laced with important facts and local flavours! Thanks for the information about ski equipments being made available by JK Tourism department!
Anonymous said…
👏👏👏👏
Anonymous said…
👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌

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