HAUTE COUTURE PERSONALISED

 

HAUTE COUTURE PERSONALISED

Like places that are named after people of eminence, there are many items of our dress that are identified with historical figures.

 

The first such item that comes to my mind is ‘Gandhi Topi’. A symbol of simplicity and utilitarianism as was with everything Gandhi, the perplexing part is that I had never seen a picture of Gandhiji actually wearing one! Not to talk of the average congressi and now the aapians who have hijacked this headgear to hoodwink the masses, I associate it more with Dadas and Mamas and Taus in childhood rural upper Shimla. Satya Nand Stokes and Dr Karan Singh also remind of the topi. On some basic research I found that it was invented in year 1919 when Gandhiji was proceeding to meet the Nawab of Rampur (same of Rampuri chaku fame) that it was pointed out he had to cover his head as was the protocol (It reminds me of the story of a young Bilaspurian who had got government service under British in pre 1947 Lahore as was told to me by my very learned octogenarian friend Capt Shakti Rathore, IAS. The guy steeped in English mannerism had left his hat outside the Durbar hall when he went to meet his Raja to face a torrent of abuse! Like rural Rajasthan or Haryana today those days pagri or topi was an essential part of the dress all over North India!. Pagri has disappeared completely in many parts including Kashmir and Himachal).  No topi fitting his (oversized) head could be found readily available and thus mother of Ali Brothers (of Khilafat fame) got hold of a piece of Khadi and created the simple headgear which became the symbol of Freedom Fighters (though it  eluded Gandhi’s pate).

 

Not left behind, protege of Gandhiji, Nehru has the ‘Nehru Jacket’ christened after him. Mistakenly, most of us think the half sleeve band gala coat so popular with our politicians is Nehru Jacket. However, actually, its the long coat which looks like a mix of Achkan and a raincoat that’s the real thing! Nehru  introduced the coat to the world. Even Vogue magazine did an article on it with Nehru posing for them!

 

If Gandhi and Nehru have an apparel dedicated to them how can there friend Jinnah go missing! Jinnah Cap is ‘Karakul Cap’ made of fleece of Karakul sheep. Its extremely warm and represents class as well as prosperity. It is popular in Central Asia, Afghanistan and Kashmir. Sheikh Abdullah is also identified with it  and  Farooq continues the legacy.

 

Band Gala coat, so elegantly Indian is actually trademark of Jodhpur.  The elitist coat was popularised in early 20^th century by the most successful World Champion Jodhpur Polo Team under the mentorship of the swashbuckling legendary Regent of Jodhpur state - The one and only ‘ Maharaja Sir Pratap Singh’. The savage noble is immortalised by his dresses, colonial loyalty, no nonsense earthly approach and also his funny English (He once embarassed the viceriene no end when in earshot of other guests he commented 'Madam you have beautiful bottocks' when he was alluding to the ducks (Battakh) in the garden). The Maharaja was extremely popular with the British press that presented him as an ideal prince - chivalorous, colourful Andhbhakt of the Queen Empress. Sir Pratap is inventor of the classic riding breeches - Called ‘Jodhpurs’. They were based on ‘Churidaars’ - being skin tight below the knees and were flared up above to permit free movement (appropriate elastic clothing was not available those days). The breaches were made of a rough, tough cloth and had adequate padding on calf to prevent rashes and permit wearing ankle high ‘Jodhpur’ polo shoes instead of the knee length ‘Wellingtons’.

 

                                                       Beatles donning Bandgala

Now, wellingtons were invented by Arthur Wellesly, the hero of waterloo, The Duke of Wellington, The commander of Anglo Mysore War that led to fall of Tipu,  and later PM of UK. These were long leather riding boots that were knee length. Later, gum boots were made in same shape and were of a great use in  trench fights of World Wars and later for farming operations. The  capital city of New Zealand and a military hill station near Ooty are also named after him.

 

Another military item of dress that was invented in India is the “Sam Browne Belt’. It’s the cross belt worn by some Army regiments and credit to its invention goes to General Sir Samuel J. Browne. The General lost his left arm during 1857 mutiny which made it difficult for him to draw the sword attached to his belt . Thus he devised a supplementary belt that went over his right shoulder to steady the sword. The design was adopted by the British Army for sword carrying officers and is still in use in Army and Police !

 

Cardigan and  Macintosh are two more clothing items named after people whereas  Denims, Jeans, Tuxedos, Ascot, Capri, Jerseys, Balclava, bikini are named after places!

 It reminds me of the obsession for loose pants called ‘Baggy pants’ in fashion in late 80s when I was in college. A friend of ours went overboard and got an extra wide pair of Jeans. Someone exclaimed it wasn’t a ‘Baggy’ but a “Bagga’. Somehow Naveen himself got nicknamed as ‘Bagga’ then onwards. Name has stuck for life and after 35 years, he is still called ‘Bagga’ by folks back home!