WADI -E - LOLAB

 

WADI – E- LOLAB

BY WARVET

 

“Pani tere chashmo ka tadapta hua simaab,

Murgahn –e –Sahar teri Fazaon mei hai betaab,

Ae wadi – e – Lolab!”

 

That’s the first stanza of the poem “Wadi – e – Lolab” written by Allama Iqbal after his Kashmir visit. It means –

 “Water of your springs is pulsating and quivering like Quick Silver (mercury),

The morning birds are fluttering in the sky, agitated and in turmoil,

O Valley of Lolab!”

It’s a revolutionary poem lamenting the state of people under autocratic rule and intends to motivate them to struggle for freedom.

 Iqbal, like Nehru had Kashmiri ancestry and was very attached and involved with the turmoil of 1920s. Sher – e – Kashmir, Sheikh Abdullah found his poetry very inspiring and has quoted Iqbal liberally in his epic autobiography – “Atish – e – Chinar” or “Blaze of Chinar”.

I was looking for the vehicle I was promised would be waiting for me, a 4x4 Bolero pickup at the mouth of the Lolab valley. I saw the rear of the garishly painted white pickup and noted the quote –

“Badi Ho Ke Truck Banugi”

I found the driver who was to be my companion smoking a beedi under an ancient Chinar. “Javed”! I called him and he looked at me with a start, threw the beedi, crushed it under his feet and came.

“Salam Walekum”! He said. “Walekum Salaam” I replied. Theek Chho?

“Haan Thik”. He was surprised. He was a local Gujjar boy of 25, and quiete a voluble guy once introductions were over.

There were 3 major nala’s tumbling down from the Shamshabari ranges that joined to make the Phoru river in Kupwara, North Kashmir he told. All three valleys are inhabited by a mixture of Gujjar, Pahari and Kashmiri people. Lolab was the best valley followed by his Kalaroos valley. The valley further he didn’t like he said. “Those people are Backward – they will work as porters for the Army for 6 months, and then hand over their money to police. They keep breaking each other’s heads”. He said. “Lets go to Lolab” I said.

Amongst the numerous valleys that one can approach from main Kashmir valley, Lolab is quiet famous for its beauty. As we entered the valley, I was struck by the rich green rice fields reaching the thickly wooded mountains. Unlike main Kashmir valley ‘Development’ has alluded the place so far and thus instead of the unending RCC Dhabas and motor garages, one can treat his eyes with uninterrupted colors of nature.

Lolab derives its name from mythical King – Lolo or Lov. Nearby, in the village of Kalaroos or “Kila –e-Roos” or “Fort of Russia” are mysterious Satbaran caves. They are kilometres deep into the hill and no one has explored them fully. Locals believe that they lead to Russia! They say Russians used to come through these caves for trade. Near these caves is the huge rock that has 7 carved nooks which look like they housed a deity each. They look like some Buddhist relic.

The Lahwal rivulet with its crystal clear water flows through Lolab valley. I found a small spring of sweet water gushing from the side of the hill on its bank. In absence of the snow and rain, these mountain springs keep the rivulets running. By the time the water reaches district HQ of Kupwara, most of it is diverted for irrigation and domestic purposes and the pristine rivulet turns into a sewage flows into a sewage drain that stinks. Only monsoons will clear the river and give it new lease of life.

As we reach village in the valley I see a Government school with Girls wearing the typical Headscarves. Morning assembly is in progress and they are singing “Lab pe aati hai dua …..” again from Iqbal. A quote on the school catches my eye

“Ink of the pen of a Scholar is more precious than the blood of a Martyr”!

Lolab used to be infested heavily with terrorists till few years back. Sustained political and military efforts have now restored peace. “Lolab Tigers” a Hollywood type collection of letters  could  seen far away on a hill, put up by the RR Batallion.

We reached the “Eco Tourism” site of Forest Department. It was a beautiful meadow fenced away and having many benches. There was a group of youth enjoying soft drinks. The meadow had beautiful deodars and sloped up the Shamshabari ranges. Some viewpoints and a zip line ware there which would be activated on Sundays for families arriving for picnics. Across the park were verdant walnut and apple orchards, some people call Lolab “Fruit bowl of Kashmir”. 

“I work with the Army mostly. They have done a great job in eliminating the Pakistani bastards. I don’t know why they keep coming here to die. We don’t need Pakistan. India is best country for muslims” Said Javed.

“But you guys voted for Engineer Rashid”

Javed was taken aback. “You know him”! He exclaimed.

“Yes. I know about local politics”.

“I won’t lie to you. I voted for Rashid”.

“Why? What will he do for you? He is in Jail under NSA”

“I know, towards voting day, his son conducted rallies here and all got swayed. Rashid speaks for Kashmir. He doesn’t change his stance like others. That’s why people like him. He doesn’t favour Pakistan. He asks for “Raishumari” or discussions. Government should let people give their choice. Even in a family if a son wants to go his own way, father permits it. Isn’t it. People can coexist. Though I am a proud Hindustani?

Are you upset that government repealed article 370”?

“Yes . People didn’t like it.”

“But can’t you see, post 370 there is peace? Kids are going to school, no one is pelting stones, there is peace”?

“Yes. You are right. Modi is a great guy. My family got 1.5 Lakh Rs to make a house?! He feeds the poor. Lot of development has taken place. Our politicians have looted us. Kids of separatists never go for Jihad. They are abroad or even in government service. And they tell kids of poor to go for jihad.”

“Do people understand it”? I asked.

“Oh yes. They are fully exposed. That’s why disillusioned people voted for Rashid. God ! You should have seen the cheap plastic shoes those 3 Babas who sneaked in from Pakistan were wearing. I would never wear such cheap shoes. They were loaded with AK rifles, currency and  Satellite phone though. The Company I work for, they despatched them to their makers at 3 AM, within minutes of them entering. The Bastards”! Spat Javed.

“I am earning Rs 14000 per month as pay from my master. I fixed my brother as a porter in a Batallion. He is earning Rs 32000 per month. I should have joined him. Both would have saved 5 Lakh in 6 month. No expenditure on food. They feed you. However, I can go home and help my parents and be with my wife and daughters.

"Where’s your parents”?

"They are up in hills with our buffaloes. You see we are gujjars. They are old now. Over 55. I have to help them with grass cutting for winters”.

“Did you go to school”?

“Oh yes, I was in Gujjar Bakarwal Boarding school run by government. It was good. Everything was free. I had to leave as my father injured himself and I had to chip in. I have saved enough money to buy a Jeep next year. May be a Truck in a few years”!

I was reminded of “Badi Ho Kar Truck Banugi”!