Adventure in Kashmir Highlands

 

ADVENTURE IN KASHMIR HIGHLANDS

'Snowfall in Gulmarg' I saw the Whattsapp message from Amir, the Ski coach we had hired in Gulmarg the day before. 'Congratulations' I replied. Whole of Kashmir, more so Gulmarg was waiting with baited breath for snowfall. It was last chance for the tourist season to go strong. As we were gliding over the majestic Deodar filled gully in the cable car called Gondola, with our skis safely secure in the slots outside the sliding doors, the ski instructors in the car were telling their clients - Its the lowest level of snow this year. Where you see 6 inches, before 2022, it used to be 4-6 feet! In this jungle you see, a man would be lost if he strayed from the track below. 

Down below you saw locals trudging up with their loads. Some ran tea shacks at the first phase or Kongdori. some were dragging their wooden sledges. They give ride to tourists on those contraptions, sliding down the slope. There are expensive snow scooters for those who can shell more. Amir had met us at 0900 h at the excellent JK Tourism Ski Hire shop. My friend Hafiz, our office supplier had put in a word to the manager who provided us with excellent gear on priority and we had made it to the first cable car going up. There's a separate queue for the skiers and they don't have to languish in the serpentine line of sight seeing crowd. A 800 Rs pass permits skiers to make as many trips as they can in a Day! JK Govt sure knows how to promote adventure activities in the state. 

'Omar was here yesterday. He went up to second phase for skiing and he made the  ski Chair car for Phase 2 free for skiers' disclosed Amir. The CM is an accomplished skier. Infact it was a video of himself skiing down from Phase 1 that he had loaded on his X that had impressed me initially. The route which he took was out of Snow White fairy tale. I had wondered if I would be able to do it ever. Last year I had learned the basics of Skiing. This year I had done all the normal slopes in the meadow. While waiting for my turn for the lift, I had chatted with the woman next to me who told me her group had come from Delhi for skiing. They came every alternate year and it was her third time. Next day their coach was taking them to do first phase. That had made me think. I had seen her skiing. If likes of her could do it, so could I! So I had talked to Hafiz and fixed everything. Now I and Reyan, my 12 year old younger son were on our way for tryst with what could be our best adventure together!

As we disembarked at First Phase or Kongodri (8700ft) Amir showed us the chair car going towards K2  that's next point to come down skiing. The slope is steep. Further you can go to Apharwat Top (13000 feet) which is for highest level skiers. You get fantastic view of Harmukh range and Majestic Nanga Parbat from here.Weighed down by our ski boots we took the iron stairs carefully, one step at a time and proceeded to launch area. I hope you both have done basic and advance courses and know 'Snow plough' and  'zig zagging' Amir had asked. I had confirmed not knowing exactly what he had meant. We had learned Skiing in Fauji style. By falls and slips. But I knew we could take on anything which Phase 1 threw at us. Of course that element of risk was there. I didn't know I should worry for the 50 plus or teenager more. Anyway Amir told us we should go slow and carefully for the first time and understand the slope. As we started, I found the slope fast. I barely survived the first turn. Amir was shouting from behind for us to stop. He came to us and told that our posture wasn't right. We had to bend our knees and bring our toe, knee cap and shoulder in a straight line. No Body Movement - He cautioned. The posture was akin to the 'Riding Posture' and we both picked it up immediately. We went on carefully. There were 3 sheer drops which we managed with some difficulty. Rest was OK. The Forest was pristine, sky was clear and with ski poles in our hands to steady us when required we reached safely the Gondola station. 

Amir took us past the now long queue of tourists and we were on our way up again. The young couple with us in cabin had Snow Boards. Till now I was feeling proud of our trip, now suddenly my ego was deflated. ' You both will come down snow boarding'? I asked them. They didn't look very athletic. Their coach and Amir smiled at us. They are no Snow Boarders. They didn't get the online tickets for Gondola ride. So they are posing as Snow Boarders. They go up by Gondola and come down by Sledge'! That must cost them a Bomb! I thought and marveled at Indian 'Jugaads'!

' Woh mera baap khada hai' Amir had pointed to a middle aged Kashmiri man in the crowd of sledge walas at Kongdori. In Kashmiris normal to call your pop - Baap. And there's no word for 'Aap' which sometimes causes misunderstanding. Amir is doing BA from Baramula college. Likewise his 2 brothers and a sister are in college. ' We can't study science as we have to work too' He had said. Will Omar bring out jobs ? I had asked. ' Jobs are sold in this state' He had answered.' Then why did you guys vote for NC so overwhelmingly'? I had probed. He had shrugged.

This time we went down faster and better. However, the snow was melting. At places, rocks were surfacing. One has to avoid them. The moment you lose focus you are thrown. It happened a couple of times with me making me wiser. Reyan was going too fast and took a bad tumble in our third round.

The experience was out of the world. I have never engaged in a more thrilling adventure in such pristine surroundings. The thrill of doing it with your little son is really something unparalleled.  Its stuff of coolest (Literally) memories. All the while Amir made our videos, going full speed in reverse. As per him the 5 trips we did in 3 hours was a record of sorts! He thought Reyan could do second phase but I was not ready. We left it for next time. Next time you can also try 'Powder Skiing' on ungroomed slopes - Amir had thrown his bait as we departed.

Back in Highlands Park, where we were staying I found my legs in cramps and stuck in the Ski Boots. I had to request the housekeeper to help me free them. I was reminded of 20 years back when we used to have those zip less Riding Boots so difficult to remove from leg without help. And it was a strange coincidence when late in evening while sipping Beer in the 'Best View' restaurant, looking at the last rays of sun caressing the Sunshine Peak of Pir Panjals, I saw 'The Vintage Cartoon' on Riding Boots!!!